Crocodile Cruising in Australia's Top End

Saltwater Crocodiles Add a Dash of Terror to an Australian Boat Trip

Nov 18, 2009 Carol Cram

The dazzling wetlands in Australia's Northern Territory teem with some of the most exotic wildlife on the planet, including the fearsome saltwater crocodile.

Just after dawn on a clear morning in July - the middle of the dry season in Australia’s Northern Territory - a flimsy tin can of a launch sets off for an hour cruise up the Corroboree Billabong in the Mary River system. Ten people are told that whatever seat they have chosen is the seat they will stay in. No one is to move, rock the boat, stand up, or otherwise cause the launch to do anything but glide serenely forward over the glassy smooth river.

The rising sun turns the water blood orange, then pink, and finally a deep, clear blue that reflects every stick and reed and bird - and basking crocodile. The intense reflections make it easy to forget which way is up.

A World of Birds

The passengers expect to see crocodiles and they will, but first they are stunned to see the incredible wealth of bird life. The guide points out a jabiru, Australia’s largest wetland bird also known as the black-necked stork. Standing 1.4 meters high (almost 5 feet) on its bright red legs, its long black beak is poised to catch a fish from the teeming waters of the billabong. Other large birds seen reflected in the glassy waters include the Australia brolga, a member of the crane family, and healthy populations of egrets, ibises, spoonbills, and herons. In fact, over 250 species of birds live in the Mary River region, site of the proposed Mary River National Park, which is located 150 km east of Darwin along the Arnhem Highway.

Lotus Land

The boat nudges into a thick carpet of bright pink lotus lilies. Thousands of the flowers - some over a foot wide - rise above massive leaves slowly turning bright green in the morning sun. The guide picks one of the flowers and hands it around to the passengers.

Sighting Saltwater Crocodiles

Lulled by the stunning beauty of the river, it is difficult to believe that a fall into the water would mean certain death. In a one hour cruise, the boat could pass over as many as 200 saltwater crocodiles, or “salties,” one of the deadliest creatures on earth. Suddenly, a basking crocodile - a good five meters long (over 16 feet) - appears not far from the edge of the boat. Its mouth is wide open, but not, according to the guide to catch passing tourists. The saltwater crocodile must maintain an even body temperature of between 30 and 32 degrees Celsius to survive. As the day warms up, the crocodile opens its mouth to keep cool - a process known as thermoregulating.

One of the passengers leans forward, holding her camera out to take a picture. The normally soft-spoken, laid back Aussie guide barks at her to sit back and keep her arms inside the boat. The danger is very real and everyone feels it.

The combination of terror and awe increases the heart rate, making the hour-long tour one of the most memorable wildlife spotting excursions.

Crocodile Cruising Options

Several cruise companies operate on the billabongs throughout the Mary River area. The best cruises are those that focus on providing an authentic wildlife viewing experience that honors the integrity of the animals. Cruises that include demonstrations of crocodiles jumping for dangled lumps of kangaroo meat are best avoided. A wildlife cruise is often included as part of a two or three-day adventure tour of Australia's Top End.

When to Go

The most popular time to visit the wetlands of the Northern Territory is during the dry season, from May to September, when the area is easily accessible to all vehicles. In the wet season from October to April, flooding closes many of the roads.

Visiting the Nearby Kakadu National Park

A few hours east along the Arnhem Highway from the Mary River system is the Kakadu National Park - one of the few World Heritage sites listed for both its cultural and natural values. The Aboriginal traditional owners who have lived in the Kakadu area for over 50,000 years co-manage the park with Australia's Director of National Parks.

Australia's Top End provides the visitor with an unparalleled travel experience that includes stunning scenery, amazing animals, wonderful recreational activities such as boating, fishing, hiking, and camping, and the opportunity to connect with one of the world's oldest cultures.

The copyright of the article Crocodile Cruising in Australia's Top End in Aus/NZ/Oceania Travel is owned by Carol Cram. Permission to republish Crocodile Cruising in Australia's Top End in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

Amazing Reflections on a Top End Billabong	Jabiru Fishing in Australia's Top End	Giant Lotus Lily on a Top End River Cruise
Cruising Australia's Mary River System	Saltwater Crocodile Basking in Australia's Top End