For those contemplating an island wilderness getaway, the ‘thousand islands’ of the Buccaneer Archipelago are almost as remote as one can get in Western Australia. The dramatic landscape of the Buccaneer Archipelago consists of between 800 and 1000 islands scattered amongst Yampi and King Sounds in the Kimberley region. Travelling to this remote wilderness, with its imposing sandstone cliffs and rugged vegetation, is an adventure in itself, with access only available by air or sea. However remote does not mean discomfort: cruising the archipelago aboard one of the vessels that ply these waters is simply a matter of choosing your level of luxury. Located north of Broome, and south west of Wyndham, the Buccaneer Archipelago is accessible only to intrepid travellers who enjoy their islands with a dash of ancient culture.
Bradshaw Rock Art
In this distant and mostly uninhabited region visitors will discover, scattered throughout the archipelago, pristine rock art galleries dating back at least 17,000 years. The ancient treasures of this inhospitable land are considered by some to be the eighth wonder of the world. Known as Gwion Gwion by the traditional people, the cave art is sometimes known as Bradshaw paintings, after the European explorer Joseph Bradshaw documented his discoveries in 1891. He noted that these paintings represent a highly sophisticated art form, thought by some to have been painted by ice-age hunter-gatherer tribes.
At Raft Point, (so named because the traditional people used mangrove tree rafts to travel out to their fishing grounds on the falling tide and return to land on the incoming tide) upon climbing a short but steep track up from the rocky beach, an astounding gallery of paintings can be found. High up in the sandstone cliffs, overlooking the sheltered waters of Doubtful Bay, the walls and roof of the cave have been intricately cloaked in scores of paintings depicting the unique halo heads of the Gwion Gwion, as well as dugongs, turtles and other marine creatures.
This area is known for its phenomenal tides and the subsequent water turbulence induced by up to 12 metres of water rising and falling every six hours. In Talbot Bay visitors can witness this phenomenon, and even ride the white water in inflatable boats if they are game, as the sea rushes through the gap in the islands at the Horizontal Falls. Montgomery Reef also produces an astounding sight after high tide, as prominent waterfalls gush down the outer edge of the otherwise submerged reef.
Rowley Shoals
If the Buccaneer Archipelago seems a little overpopulated and bustling, perhaps the three isolated pear shaped coral cays that comprise the Rowley Shoals is more your style. The shoals are so remote, you would need a passport if you travelled any further offshore. Located on the edge of the Continental Shelf almost 300km west of Broome, the Rowley Shoals are a diving and fishing enthusiasts dream. Just don’t expect to find exotic hotels or palm trees here: you would barely be aware you’d arrived if it wasn’t for the sand cays just poking above the ocean.
Comprising predominantly underwater reefs, with a couple of stark white sand cays that can disappear altogether at high tide, the shoals rise vertically up from the sea floor. Sheltered lagoons inside each outer reef provide protected waters, sheltered enough from the ocean swells for overnight anchorages.
With each atoll comprising an 80 square km coral wonderland, it is not unusual for divers to encounter up to 60 metre visibility in one of the largest untouched coral gardens on the planet. It seems as though all the natural highlights in these remote waters are of the giant variety: expect to see giant clams nestled amongst the 233 species of coral, as giant potato cod and maori wrasse follow divers as they drift along the sheer coral walls. Snorkellers will encounter some of the more than 600 speices of fish, drifting gently past the exquisitely coloured coral of the ‘Aquariaum’ at Clerke Reef.
Fishing enthusiasts will enjoy deep sea fishing on the 12 hour journey to and from the shoals. Guests onboard the charter vessel Reel Teaser often land giant trevally, Mahi Mahi, Spanish Mackeral and Wahoo, and that’s before they arrive at the shoals. Once anchored inside the lagoon, expect to find coral trout on the dinner menu, invariably enjoyed on the large aft deck as the enormous red ball of the Kimberley sun sinks into the sea.
Getting There: There are only choices when choosing your arrival into the Kimberley: by air or by sea. Depart from either Broome or Darwin onboard one of the charter vessels that ply the regeion. Or alternatively, charter a light aircraft from either Broome or Kunnurra to meet your charter vessel stationed in the Kimberley.
Where to Stay
Great Escape Charter Company operates personalised small ships Kimberley Escape or Great Escape to the Buccaneer Archipelago, for a maximum of 14 guests.
North Star Cruises operates the luxurious True North, with its' own onboard helicopter, for up to 36 guests, with diverse itineraries to the Buccaneer Archipelago.
Reel Teaser Charters provides custom itineraries to the Rowley Shoals between April and October, onboard their 16 metre flybridge cruiser Reel Teaser
Best season: All cruises oeprate during the dry season from April to October
Must See: Rock art gallery at Raft Point; Montgomery Reef after the high tide; Horizontal Falls at Talbot Bay; magical Kimberley sunsets over the sea. Snorkel or dive the Aquarium at Clerke Reef; beachcombing and BBQ on Bedwell Island; pristine marine and coral habitat visited by very few visitors
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